Friulano

Friulano has been grown in Friuli since at least the seventeenth century and was historically referred to as Tocai Friulano. For centuries, it was the most widely planted white grape in the region and formed the backbone of local wines served in osterie and paired with regional dishes. Its name and identity became entangled in an international naming dispute when Hungary secured protected designation for Tokaji, leading the European Union to ban the use of the name Tocai on Italian labels as of 2007. As a result, the variety has since been marketed simply as Friulano. Despite this setback, the grape has remained a pillar of Friulian white wine culture and has enjoyed renewed appreciation for its restrained character and compatibility with food.

DNA testing has confirmed that Friulano is genetically identical to Sauvignonasse, a variety also known as Sauvignon Vert in Chile and Jakot in Slovenia. It is not related to Sauvignon Blanc, despite the similar names. The grape was once widely planted across northeastern Italy, Slovenia, and parts of France, but it is in Friuli that it has found its clearest identity and highest expression. Though the name “Tocai” is no longer permitted on labels, it is still used informally by locals. The grape is distinct from the Hungarian varieties used in Tokaji and should not be confused with Italian Tocai Rosso, which is actually Grenache.

Friulano is a moderately vigorous and early to mid ripening variety. It adapts well to the region’s hilly, well drained soils and benefits from Friuli’s long, temperate growing season. It performs best on marl and sandstone soils in subzones such as Collio, Colli Orientali del Friuli, and Grave. The vine is relatively resistant to disease and drought, making it suitable for organic or low intervention viticulture. Yields must be controlled to preserve aromatic intensity and texture. The grape’s thick skins help it retain structure, and its naturally low acidity contributes to its soft, rounded profile.

Friulano is most commonly vinified in stainless steel or concrete to preserve freshness and varietal character. Some producers age the wine briefly on lees to enhance mouthfeel and add subtle complexity. Oak is used sparingly and typically only by producers aiming for a fuller, gastronomic style. The grape is also well suited to skin contact and natural wine styles, which can highlight its phenolic texture and almond bitterness. While it rarely undergoes malolactic fermentation, some winemakers allow partial conversion to round out the palate. The wines are usually bottled young, but the best examples can age for several years, gaining depth and savoury nuance.

Friulano produces dry white wines with a delicate aromatic profile, soft acidity, and a distinctive almond note on the finish. Flavours typically include green apple, pear skin, white peach, chamomile, and bitter herbs. The texture is supple and rounded, often with a gentle mineral tension and a slightly saline edge. Alcohol levels are moderate, and the wines are typically medium bodied and subtle rather than overtly fruity. With age, Friulano can develop beeswax, hay, and flint aromas, especially in low intervention or lees aged examples.

Friulano has regained status as a flagship white grape of Friuli, especially among producers focused on terroir driven and gastronomic wines. The shift away from oak heavy international styles has played to its strengths, allowing its subtlety and food friendliness to shine. It is increasingly featured in single vineyard bottlings and is a key component of the region’s identity in the context of sustainable farming and local cuisine. While plantings remain concentrated in northeastern Italy, the grape is beginning to find advocates in Slovenia, Austria, and a few natural wine producers abroad.

Ronco del Gnemiz and Miani produce textured, ageworthy Friulano from top hillside vineyards, often with partial oak ageing and extended lees contact. I Clivi and La Castellada offer more mineral, restrained expressions with an emphasis on transparency and purity. Radikon and Gravner craft skin contact styles that reveal a deeper, more tactile side of the grape, while Vie di Romans makes a riper, layered version suited to richer dishes.