Greco

Greco is a historic white grape variety from southern Italy, best known for its role in the structured, mineral driven wines of Greco di Tufo DOCG in Campania. Revered since ancient times, Greco is valued today for its acidity, texture, and capacity to reflect volcanic terroir.

About

Greco is known for its crisp acidity and distinctive flavour profile, which is characterised by notes of lemon, green apple, and sometimes a hint of almond or hazelnut. They are typically made in a dry style, with balanced acidity and medium body weight. It is typically fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, which helps to preserve its fresh and vibrant character. Some producers may also use a small amount of oak ageing to add complexity and depth to the wine, although this is relatively rare. The wine is well-suited to a wide range of food pairings, and is often enjoyed with seafood, shellfish, and light salads. It is also popular as an aperitif wine, and is enjoyed on its own or with light appetisers. Due to its high acidity, Greco is also a good candidate for ageing, and can develop a more complex and nuanced flavour profile with time. Recommendations: The number of very good Greco wines has increased dramatically over the last decade. The large estates of Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberardino produce premium expressions that are a noticeable step up from their basic ones and these have been very successful at introducing the variety to the world. There are a number of wineries and small growers that produce outstanding Greco di Tufo wines howver. The leading star of the appellation is Roberto di Meo, whose single vineyard ‘Vittorio’ Greco di Tufo is an exceptional wine with immense ageing capacity. Azienda Agricola Torricino di Stefano di Marzo, the appellation’s historical pioneer, also produces benchmark expressions of the variety. Although they utilise the appellation’s rather confusing Riserva category, the single vineyard wines of Vigna Orate, Vigna Serrone and Vigna Laure offer great insight into the potential of the grape. Well made Greco wines from the Greco di Tufo DOCG are best drunk two to three years from the vintage, but will develop will for a decade.

History

Greco has deep roots in Campania, with a name and reputation that link it to antiquity. It is often associated with the Aminea Gemina, a grape cited by Roman writers such as Pliny the Elder, though no direct genetic link has been proven. Historically, Greco was grown in the hills around Avellino, and particularly in the area of Tufo, where it developed a reputation for producing robust, ageworthy wines with pronounced minerality. In 2003, Greco di Tufo was elevated to DOCG status, confirming its importance. Though long overshadowed by more widely planted varieties, Greco has returned to prominence thanks to producers focused on terroir expression and regional authenticity.

DNA

DNA profiling confirms that Greco Bianco, the grape used in Greco di Tufo, is distinct from other similarly named grapes such as Grechetto, Greco Nero, or Greco di Bianco, which are grown in Umbria, Calabria, and other regions. The term "Greco" was historically used to suggest Hellenic origins or ancient prestige, and it appears in many regional synonyms across Italy, not all of which are related. In Campania, Greco is always bottled as Greco di Tufo DOCG when grown within the official production zone. It is also occasionally blended or bottled as a varietal under IGT classifications in nearby areas.

In the Vineyard

Greco is a moderately vigorous, mid ripening variety that thrives in volcanic, sulphur rich soils. It performs best at higher altitudes, typically between 400 and 600 metres, where cool nights preserve acidity and promote slow, even ripening. The vine produces compact clusters of thick skinned berries that resist rot, making it well suited to the often humid climate of inland Campania. Yields must be carefully controlled, as overproduction can lead to dilution and loss of aromatic detail. Its naturally high acidity and moderate sugar levels provide ideal building blocks for ageworthy white wines.

In the Cellar

Greco is typically fermented in stainless steel to preserve freshness, with many producers opting for extended lees contact to enhance texture and mid palate weight. Some examples are aged in large neutral oak or acacia barrels for added structure and depth, but overt oak influence is rare. Malolactic fermentation is generally avoided to retain brightness, though it may occur in warmer vintages or stylistic choices aimed at rounder wines. The grape’s strong phenolic profile allows for ageing and sometimes a hint of skin contact, especially in artisanal or natural expressions. Greco’s sulphur rich soils and high dry extract give wines a distinctive mineral edge.

Wine Style

Greco produces dry white wines that are medium to full bodied, with firm acidity, moderate alcohol, and a textured, slightly tannic structure. Aromas typically include citrus peel, green apple, white plum, dried herbs, almond skin, and flint. With age, the wines develop smoky, nutty notes along with a saline, savoury complexity. The palate is often marked by a firm, chalky minerality and a long, linear finish. Compared to Fiano, Greco tends to be more angular and austere in youth, with greater phenolic grip and more pronounced volcanic character.

Predictions

Greco is increasingly recognised as one of southern Italy’s great white varieties. Producers are exploring high altitude and single vineyard sites to capture finer expressions of terroir. The grape’s ability to combine structure with freshness has made it a favourite among sommeliers seeking gastronomic whites with ageing potential. Organic and low intervention winemaking is becoming more common, especially in Avellino, where traditional farming is being revitalised. Outside Campania, interest in Greco is growing in Basilicata and other southern regions, where it is seen as a serious alternative to international white grapes.

Recommendations

Benito Ferrara produces benchmark Greco di Tufo from Tufo itself, with piercing minerality and ageworthy structure. Terredora di Paolo and Mastroberardino offer classic, well balanced expressions with orchard fruit and volcanic backbone. Cantine di Marzo and Feudi di San Gregorio explore more contemporary, refined styles from hillside vineyards. Quintodecimo crafts powerful, layered Greco with extended lees ageing and site specificity. These producers highlight Greco’s capacity to express place, evolve in bottle, and stand among Italy’s finest white wines.